| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 1/3/2008 5:25:22 PM | Okay, I got my "Service Engine Now" light to go off. Here's how:
-While driving, opened glove compartment too hard and entire thing fell out on the floor, exposing many wires behind.
-Pulled over, parked, poked with right index finger at assorted wires, reinstalled glovebox.
-Replaced glovebox items, retaining manual.
-Read section on "Service Engine Now" light thoroughly.
-Said: "Sh**" and replaced manual in glovebox.
-Slammed glovebox as hard as I could.
-Put car in "D" for drive.
-Proceeded to drive.
-Light went off.
Worked for me. Give it a try.
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 1/4/2008 12:18:16 AM | ^^^^^most codes have to be manually reset or take 50-100 engine starts to reset (provided error has been fixed.
some cars computer brains will forget everything if the battery is disconnected -and must "re-learn" driving habits, fuel mixture and idle etc. by being driven for quite a few miles, or starts.
the automotive aftermarket industry has looked over the small automotive shops and parts distributors for years. they have been suing the "big three" for years to make sure they share equipment, secrets and software to allow any shop or mechinic with an asc certification to have the ability to make any repair without you having to go back to the dealer. the only drawback is most of the new diagnostic and repair tools are extremely expensive and complicated -so choose your shop wisely...
it certainly makes me happy to walk away from a dealer that trys to charge me $299 for a coolant and belt change. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 4:00:58 AM | On newer cars it's always good practice to always disconnect the possitive wire on the battery to do major repairs. Some of the cars like hyundi's have touchie devices around the suspension that can triggar the airbags.They even have detenators in the seat belts that detinate and lock the seat belts. an a lot of these cars are designed so that when the passenger side air bag blows plan on replacing the windsheild as well.
Yes it's a known fact that you certainly don't want to take some of these newer cars to just any ole shade tree mechanic. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 7:03:50 AM | The thing is that most small shops aren't equipped with the right code scanners. OBD-I cars (pre '96) all use different equipment to scan their codes depending on the manufacturer while OBD-II cars all use the same scanners and codes to detect any faults. And they have many more sensors on them for emissions purposes and to fine tune the air to fuel ratio. Otherwise, the engines are mechanically the same as their predecessors.
I own and work on an OBD-II car and it's no different from and OBD-I car. If you get a check engine light and need to pull the codes, go down to the local Autozone and they'll do it for free instead of paying a repair shop anywhere from $50-$75. They'll tell you what the code means and usually they can help you figure out what needs to be replaced.
Or if this is too daunting for you, ask around for advice on the local repair shops in your area. Word of mouth is always better than bold advertisements when it comes to auto repair shops. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 9:24:34 AM | | in the late 90s there was a suit filed against manufactures called the "right to repair act" snap-on benifited greatly from this and you can buy the same tools the dealers use, scanner will run 5200 complete for all gas engines and diesel is extra. however it is getting difficult to repair certain things such as coolant sensors on ford 4.6 cars or oil filters on cavilier/sunfire 2.2, some vehicles dont even have trans fluid dipsticks on autos. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 9:47:49 AM | Ford generally uses the same sensors on all their cars regardless of the engine as do most manufacturers. The programming is what's different. For example, the throttle position sensor on say a 2005 Taurus will work on the same year Mustang but the calibration might not be the same in the control system.
I know on my '89 SHO, the DIS module will also fit the Thunderbirds with distributorless ignition and most of the other sensors will interchange with other Ford cars. It's good because those parts will be around for the foreseeable future and won't be too expensive to buy.
BTW, why would the oil filter be difficult to replace on the GM 2.2L engines? | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 9:56:23 AM | | between the firewall and the rear of the block 4 inches from dead center, rack an pinion are in the way from the bottom. the ford parts are generally very versitile but the locations are whats the P.I.A on the 4.6 engine, you have to remove the plastic intake to get to the coolant sensor and other pieces. and mopar i turn down constantly due to the cheaply made parts that break when trying to access other parts | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 11:23:01 AM | My ex had her van in the dealer shop for scheduled maintenence, $900, with a notation on the bill that said her water pump was "about to fail," an $1100 repair.
There was no indication whatsoever to indicate the pump was failing. No leaking antifreeze, nothing coming out the "weep hole," nothing.
I advised her to take her business somewhere else.
My '95 Trans Sport is neither OBD I nor OBD II; I've been told it's a "transition" system called "GM I." I can't read the codes with a paper clip like OBD I, and AutoZone can't read them with their OBD II scanners. I have to take it to a dealer and pay $100 to have then read the codes... dealer wants $500 to replace the EGR. The new part alone is $150, it's held on with 2 screws. I got the part free at a junkyard (they won't sell me used electric components, but they will give them away), bought a $12 gasket and installed it myself in 5 minits. Works fine and the idiot light went out.
Check out "Angie's List" for reputable businesses. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 7:31:20 PM | between the firewall and the rear of the block 4 inches from dead center, rack an pinion are in the way from the bottom.
Ouch! That sounds fun.
the ford parts are generally very versitile but the locations are whats the P.I.A on the 4.6 engine, you have to remove the plastic intake to get to the coolant sensor and other pieces.
Yeah I understand that. I don't care for the fancy engine covers or the manifolds that they make. It just gets in the way of everything. Funny that they're made of plastic these days too.
and mopar i turn down constantly due to the cheaply made parts that break when trying to access other parts
Mopar sucks. They put out some fast cars, but I was never keen on their build quality. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/3/2008 7:35:51 PM |
My ex had her van in the dealer shop for scheduled maintenence, $900, with a notation on the bill that said her water pump was "about to fail," an $1100 repair.
There was no indication whatsoever to indicate the pump was failing. No leaking antifreeze, nothing coming out the "weep hole," nothing.
I advised her to take her business somewhere else.
Repair shops are notorious for ripping women off because most of them don't have a general knowledge of cars. Scare tactics usually work well too.
My '95 Trans Sport is neither OBD I nor OBD II; I've been told it's a "transition" system called "GM I." I can't read the codes with a paper clip like OBD I, and AutoZone can't read them with their OBD II scanners. I have to take it to a dealer and pay $100 to have then read the codes... dealer wants $500 to replace the EGR. The new part alone is $150, it's held on with 2 screws. I got the part free at a junkyard (they won't sell me used electric components, but they will give them away), bought a $12 gasket and installed it myself in 5 minits. Works fine and the idiot light went out.
I've never heard of that control system before. What a pain in the ass it is to know that you have to take it back to the stealership for service. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/4/2008 10:56:00 AM | Mopar sucks. They put out some fast cars, but I was never keen on their build quality. I think Fords suk to work on. This past winter had been transmission winter for me. I had about 6 transmission jobs come in here in about 3 months. I did transmission switches on Ford,GM and Dodge. I must say that the ford trannys are the biggest hassels.Then Dodges sliding in second and GM being the easiest to switch.I'm going to charge more on the fords from now on. I don't care if I ever switch trannys in a Ford again in this life time. Yeah them Mercury Sables are quite the experience. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/4/2008 2:54:14 PM |
I've never heard of that control system before. What a pain in the ass it is to know that you have to take it back to the stealership for service. The real theft is that those ALDL sockets could easily be replaced with a USB port, the codes downloaded into a thumb drive and subsequently read by any PC with the appropriate software...
But that would be too convenient for DIY consumers and small repair shops. | |
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| Taking a vehicle to a repair shop
Posted: 6/4/2008 10:00:58 PM | | Not to mention the independent parts/ speed shops, two of my favorites which are now gone, but were there a only few months ago. One was in buisness since the 1950's. Fortunately the after market continues to pump out parts for my 65' Mustang, and assorted trucks. | |
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