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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 1:04:38 AM | We are seriously going to have to start an accounting thread so I too can step on someone else's,... toes back !! LOL
This time at least it's the best solution. Yes get that frame !!
Dear screwing your bag to a stud is not a good idea! That means you have to remain horizontal ! Unless you mean the cieling and then those would be either floor joists for the floor above ( the underside holds your cieling plaster / drywall) or a rafter if in the attic.
All floor joists are designed with specific loads, which take into account various facters such as span distances, floor use, joist material and several others criteria. Floors are sheeted to help spread out the loads across many joists. By screwing a load, your bag in this case, static when just hanging, live when your beating the crap out of it... isn't a great idea ! It could be done if a bracket was made to span several joists to support a single ring but it could lead to damages to the hardwood of the floor above by eventually sagging these joists. which btw won't exactly "spring back" once sagged.
Marilyn48: From here I cannot tell what it was, nor what kind of tap you have, ( single lever, dual separate handles ) but I will tell you these things rarely fix themselves. Monitor that tap, oh and it helps much; that when it is dripping you figure whether it was hot or cold by running both; to get the hot - hot and the cold - cold then turn off and wait for drips.
Jlow: a common misconception…. A larger pipe (¾ ) will carry more water ( volume) but the pressure will remain constant. I don’t know MKD ‘s home’s age, nor it’s layout, but water pipe sizing codes, based on loads came into effect quite a while ago . Did you know MB is the only place that allowed the entire house to be piped in only ½” pipe size.
okay i think i can back to sleep now... darn stomache flu ! | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 4:51:15 AM | I usually do pay people to do work for me. There is Carmine the painter and Gord the renovator guy. I also have a neighbor that is exceptionally good and a bit of a jack-of-all-trades that has done some work for me. I find if I know more about the job, I can make more informed decisions and determine the best price.
Anyone know a flooring guy? I had water damage in the entryway and the sheeting below the vinyl needs replacing when the floor is done. I bought the vinyl over a year ago and then the flooring guy (yes there was one of those too), took a job in Thompson before he did the installation. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 5:26:29 AM | | Dianthus9 - there is a great flooring place on St. Annes called Exclusive Carpeting that selling all kinds of roll ends etc. of lino. They have installation people as well though I have only bought flooring there. They sell great industrial strength lino that never rips or tears (I am awful hard on everything). | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:50:59 AM | Smart alec >>>>>
"I have thought of putting in a range hood " & I decided to go with a microwave with exhaust fan built in though I am hoping this is enough. "
By the sounds of it you do alot of cooking with grease ! Health wise you should consider healthier alternatives ! Both of the options you mentioned are vented and should be done properly to the out doors ! If the eaves run too low, why not have a roof jack put in and vent it up and out ! You should take all that grease laden air and remove it ! I'm assuming your haveing your OTR microwave installed over your stove right? Another option is as they do in new homes now where the vent runs between the studs and down into bsmt then is run outside ? Unless your stove is on an outside wall then it can be run directly out precise measuremnts required !
FOLKS PLEASE remember, those people at rona and home depot are not trade qualified professionals with years apon years of experience.. They take a seminar for what a day or so and are briefly taught a little bit about everything.. for the most part...
Ask a pro ! sometimes I have had to interupt the so called 19 yr old home depot professional becuase they were giving foolish advice to some poor soul! I also suggest improvements to the electrical seeing as wireing will have to be done for the new microwave ( as a separate circut ) what about counter plugs and the newer codes that came out regarding those ?
Paint should be the last of your concerns... doing everything else properly should be a priority ! Insulation ? is it r-20 min ! That window is it energy effiecent ? wiring ? what about the water lines and drain ? are they galvanized and in need of replacement !
Oh and to answer your paint question ! The best paint I have used, it's thicker and doesn't splatter like behr or other thinner paints is SICO sold by my buddy rodger at keenans Kolor castle on osborne... he'll fix you up with a terrriffic paint ! Tell him Ed the plumber sent ya... ! ya may even get a deal, better than rona ! ( that also carries it )
Now ms "D" aka the plumbing accountant ! lol ... okay so it sounds as if you need your subfloor ( likely proboard ) removed and a new sub floor laid down then a new lino installed over it. Careful, most flooring guys on a smallish job like this want to get in and out, and may just want to lay new subfloor directly on top of what you have now. This is a common industry practice and is less labor intensive thus less expensive than pulling up the old.. but it depends on what other flooring meets this area... ( you'll be adding 1/4" in hieght ) fyi. Depending on your area , wait you said you had the lino from how long ago ? Hmm does it now have a roll memory ? Is it clean still ( i'm talking about the back part where the adhesive will either grip or not ( if it's dusty and oldish ) ... To get a guy to do such a small job will be difficult unles you buy from a place and have them install it ! | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 10:29:36 AM | I hope you all understand I cannot fully explain each thing becuase of various variable specific to your project that you may or may not realize... this is just some pointers and not the endall advice... seeing is realizing in most cases...
But here is one from a PM I recieved that some may be interested in... a copy and paste.
Good going on that thread, it's really interesting!!! I have another question, about laminate flooring, I thought it floats and has a cushioning underlay???? ie. I want to put it in my 450 sq ft studio which is tiled sort of (most are coming off and easy to take off, then there is plywood underneath), the floor is level so what is with someone (unexperienced), telling me I'll have to level the floor????? And how is that done? Another layer of plywood or that levelling compound stuff, is that really necessary?? I thought that was the beauty of the new tongue in groove, laminate, it's EASY!!! I don't get it?? and is there an R-Value to laminate with underlay as I would need some sort of insulating value? LOL....you can copy and paste my questions into your thread.....enquiring minds want to know!!!!
Dear friend>>
Never ever, ever put ceramic or other tiles directly on plywood or other wooden flooring ! Nor be sold by that mini cushion crap box stores try to sell. The reason is wood “flexs” and ceramics do not !
The only way to lay tile is to lay them on a bed of mortar ( concrete or gysum based ) at least ¾” thick with metal lathe ( at min) embedded in it. ! This will give you a solid, non flexible “slab” on which to lay your tiles and the floor will move as a whole, thus no flex and cracked grout lines or popped tiles !
As for the new “click” laminates available…. There’s a few secrets to those too ! As with any job prep is the most important factor next to finishing ! Any floor ( base ) you are putting this laminate on has to be “flat” , with no dips or ridges or sudden changes of elevation other wise when you walk on it it too will flex and those little grooves can only hold / withstand so much before they break and or separate.
So yes the floor have to be checked with a straight edge and additional fasteners installed where needed ( for flex / bounce control ), some dips will have to be “floated” with a gypsum based quick set floor leveler , then troweled smooth and or sanded if your troweling skills are lacking… a flat base is important for a long lasting job ! Then the under lay is laid down…and taped at all seems .. that tyvek tape will hold for ever and is what I have used. Then it’s the layout and which direction you want to run your flooring… check the “square “ of the room to make sure the wall you are starting against is suitable… Follow the manufacturer’s direction with this little added tidbit. I glue the ends ( the short side of the board ) regardless if it’s glued or non glued flooring. ) Other wise you may suffer from pressure separation in a row, ie at an entrance where simple stopping and changing direction will move the last board away from the row and you always have to “stomp it back” into place… because the whole floor floats , with an approximate ¼” space around the whole perimeter ( very important to maintain for humidity changes, where the floor will actually “grow” in size with absorption of humidity ) the tendency is for the last board to pull away from the floor in some cases.. ( due to the ¼” space from the wall ) that’s why I glue the rows / boards on the ends. Weldbond is great, it’s easily cleaned with water ( when wet ) and dries clear !
*** very important to acclimatize your flooring by storing it “in the room” you are going to install it 48 hours before use / installation ! *** Otherwise all kinds of problems will surface after you finish your job ! Really it is cheaper to do it right the first time… and getting an installation kit for what ever flooring your using is a good investment too and it’s only like $ 25.00 in most cases… oh and really sharp blades on that chop saw and the table saw are important.. the more “teeth” per inch the finer the cuts… That whole “measure twice and cut once” thing is the right way to go …
As for increasing insulation values... well is this studio over a "crawlspace", is said crawlspace heated or not heated... ( two very important distinctions ) one requires perimeter insulation c/w vapour barrier & the other,.... well it depends on site conditions as to how best to tackle that cold feet stuff ! Woolen socks are the cheapest fix... LOL But seriously I'd have to have a looksee... what's for dinner ? LOL | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 11:44:20 AM | I would be interested to hear anyone's opinion or feedback on I believe their called slab houses, pre-built houses found on Lagimodiere heading north. Think their company is called Star...maybe I'm wrong.
The reason I ask is I have a small 850 square foot house in Fort Garry (built in the 50ties)that I rent out to my
son. Am considering tearing down the little add- on and expanding the size of the house by possibly adding on one of these pre-fab houses. What do you think ED?
Bad idea?
The house is in a great location, double lot and I know if I sell it...more than likely it will be torn down. My son is looking for a bigger house and I know he will never find anything in this area for what he can afford. I would really appreciate your feedback. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 1:56:33 PM | freckles: If you can go with the stand, it's probably a better option (more portable, less work, little need to make holes in the ceiling -- but I'd still secure it against falling by hanging a safety chain.
However, if you want to hang a heavy bag (I'm assuming that's what you're referring to) from the ceiling, hang it as close to an outside wall as is practical and hang it so the weight is distributed across at least two joists. This will eliminate any sagging caused by the weight or stress of the bag in use. If close to an outside wall isn't practical or desireable, the next best locaiton would be close to a load bearing wall or close to a telepost (name??). Basically, you want to avoid the centre in the joists if you can. If you can get into the ceiling area and access the joists directly, you can do this by bolting a steel plate across two (three is even better) joists, and then hanging the bag from the centre of the steel plate. I used a 1/2" bolt and ring and hung the bag by a steel 'D' ring. I would recommend adding a heavier link chain between the steel plate and the bag, one that is an inch or two longer. This acts as a 'brake' on the bag if the connecting ring or hardware were ever to break. In retrospect, after five years of use, I think all the precautions I took were overkill, but "better safe than sorry".
I hung a 125 lb bag in the basement of the house in exactly this way. Amazingly, it was the design and recommendation of "Stan" from Home Depot, with a few modifications, that worked. "Stan" is fountain of really practical advice. He's been building, fixing, plumbing, repairing, replacing, and generally doing a grand job for 50+ years. Stan knows his stuff. Anyway, I'd trust Stan's advice over anyone else's any day of the week. Of course, Stan reminds me of my Dad (52 years as a plumber, slater, bricklayer, carpenter, builder, joiner, finisher, and instructor) so maybe I'm biased toward experienced professionals who have tens of thousands of successful "jobs well done" under their belt. | |
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Piklee
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Joined: 12/6/2007
Msg: 85 | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 4:02:50 PM | Now ms "D" aka the plumbing accountant ! lol ... okay so it sounds as if you need your subfloor ( likely proboard ) removed and a new sub floor laid down then a new lino installed over it. Careful, most flooring guys on a smallish job like this want to get in and out, and may just want to lay new subfloor directly on top of what you have now. This is a common industry practice and is less labor intensive thus less expensive than pulling up the old.. but it depends on what other flooring meets this area... ( you'll be adding 1/4" in hieght ) fyi. Depending on your area , wait you said you had the lino from how long ago ? Hmm does it now have a roll memory ? Is it clean still ( i'm talking about the back part where the adhesive will either grip or not ( if it's dusty and oldish ) ... To get a guy to do such a small job will be difficult unles you buy from a place and have them install it !
Yup, I already knew the underlayer needs replacing but need someone to do it. The original quote by the guy who left town was to remove the old flooring and sub-floor and install the new using 3/8 or 1/2" plywood. I was hoping someone on here had personal experience and could make a recommendation. I usually try to hire someone that is recommended by a previous customer.
The vinyl I bought is wrapped in a plastic casing so it isn't dirty or dusty and since the flooring at the stores is on a big roll in a warehouse for some time before its moved to the showroom, I think it should be okay. Its just one of those jobs that I've been procrastinating about. One of these days.... | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 4:21:16 PM | So far every thing Ed has posted has been correct, trust me. My house in east ft Garry was a Reno nightmare, it took ten years to complete, but not totally. The kitchen needed a make over. Most of the posts have covered just about everything I went through,lol. But not MKD's make out hot tub, I opted for a movie room, and the got turned into a indoor archery range,lol. Now, there are some older tradesman at these stores, but they do not stay long. I was lucky with having a sister as carpenter for over 30 years and set and stage designer for MTC. Plus great journeymen for neighbours. So, I learned and saved a bundle on most of the stuff. Now, my new little place, will take no time in re-doing what has to be done.
Always take advantage of free advice and get second opinions, when you start hearing and seeing the same thing, your on the right track.
Another point, that I think edjoe said, was about younger tradesman(being up to date) is true, the codes change all the time, and if done wrong by a contractor and it does not pass, it's a pain to get him back and then it's a quick fix, because it costs him money now.
And if ever doing a big reno, be your own contractor!!! Never hire someone to take care of it all and sub-contract out! There has been alot of people burnt by this so big it would make you puke!!! and wipe you out!!($$$$) This has become a very nasty practice by some as of late with the reno boom. They ask for a ton of cash up front, job gets a 1/4 done, then they hit you up for more. Then if you call them on it, there gone, put a lean on your house, the sub-contracted tradesman's get burned, and it gets around with the union and you have a hell of time finding tradesman, until they find out it was not you that burnt them but the general contractor who is sitting on all this cash, and goes belly up for the six or seventh time. By the time you sue the guy, he has no money, and his wife has a new bussines in her name, and nothing can be done.
So people, check out the people you hire real good, check ref's, ask to see some of their work. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 4:26:08 PM | | I had to rip my whole sub floor to the main planks and joists, left the planks, and went with 5/8 osb, it was a ****, but it turned out like a dance hall floor. Dam, I miss the floor now | |
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Narkle
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Joined: 12/15/2007
Msg: 89 | |
| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 4:27:20 PM | Eewww. What a dirty job that one is ! Sub flooring... yuck !
I have done that before - just a complete pain in the 'patootie'.
The most recent one I did was for a cottage and replaced the 1/2 inch that was down with a full one inch thickness. Talk about a firm floor - no creaking, no shifting, no nothing! Price is a killer though - at that time it was about $50 a sheet. I didn't think it was nessesary to go that thick, but my friend had it in his head - that was what he wanted ! So who was I to say otherwise. But talk about a huge difference with the end result !
So, if I was to offer any advice it would be to go with the 3/4 inch over the 1/2 inch.
You will be soooooo much happier with the end result ! (A firmer MUCH more stable floor with much less creaking - depending on the size of the original floor joists and the method that the floor is attached of course...)
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 6:14:09 PM |
More Popcorn please
Forget more Popcorn, anyone have the coffee brewing (preferrably good old irish coffee, lots of whipped cream)????
Been enjoying the entertainment and reading the good advice!!!!
Ed:...any idea when you will be getting around???? | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 6:36:25 PM | Now if you want good contact, with your handi man / contractor. I would suggest shorter skirts, stockings, (not the cheap fishnet crap), english imported back seams. Heels not too tall so you can get on your knees, to see where he pointing to what has to be done to get the job done
I think I'm gonna fry for this one | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:02:07 PM | ^^^^And what makes you think I invest in the cheap walmart fishnet stockings????
Those (stockings) are one of the few things in life you don't scrimp on!!!! | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:13:26 PM | | I have an eighteen gauge bradnailer that has a broken driver....anyone have a spare one.....got some serious nailing to do.... | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:18:12 PM | You got that right. Well...at least now I know what to do to get my reno's finished. I would ask the old stipple removal question which you answered for me briefly. But since I'm a woman and never listen the first time around....and there may be others that want this info as well, please give your recommendations.
Also .....more of an opinion than advice. I have a living room/dining room combo with inset wallson one side. I was thinking of doing them in faux brick. My other thought was using dhongia grass. It comes in sheets almost like wallpaper and gives a really earthy look. I have gone with a sand color paint (like coffee double cream) and a mud color (light hot chocolate). I am putting in laminate floors, and the futons are black with tan and the dining room chairs are black leather. I really wanted to do something different to give these walls a bit of focus. The inset in the livingroom has a fireplace and the inset in the dining room has a china cabinet. Please....any ideas any of you have will be appreciated....well...most of them anyway.  | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:34:15 PM | | I have a microwave I would like to put on a 2' shelf about 4' off the ground. It will need to be at least 18" deep, but 24" would be even better. I had considered making a 2' square box with a built-in shelf for the bits and pieces that go with the microwave. Whatever the design ends up being, the problem is the shelf has to go into a drywall (1/2" I think) over concrete wall. I have the drill and the bits to do the job, but I more used to dealing with wood. I want to anchor it sufficiently to hold the weight, but keep the whole thing aesthetically pleasing. I had considered those "floating shelf" systems, but I'm not sure about their ability to hold a mid-size microwave or to anchor into concrete. Any suggestions? | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 7:54:35 PM | Seriously … now with all the biatching going on about flaming and stuff…
Can you all now see why I’d really like to give someone a good ole north end home coming .. ..potatoe sack and duct tape… an improvised “ bag “ ..
Anyways, I have to learn to ignore the “special” attention getters with only councilors as friends..LOL GO ASK STAN !!! is my advice !!!
Back to serious realistic stuff !
SPARKS>>>>> I'll help you with advice about building and fixing stuff.. BUT I ain't no girl friend with style advice for the love room ! Now if you want to build a MAN ROOM... then NOW we're talking !!!!! But putting grass on the wall ? Pardon me, but shouldn't that be rolled up or put in a bowl ? ...... LOL Go green ! I mean riders suck !
INterludesolo ....
Those are called RTM homes ( ready to move ) and their is more than star lumber that builds them, there is olympic as well as mc Dairmid that have divisions that build them.
I'll PM you some detailed info and advice about those.... but it is an excellant option! But before you get all excited, go see what each has to offer in the way of designs , floor plans and the price ranges .... BUT more importantly if they can actually deliver one to where you want it.
DEADLY… so do you have those stockings ? I’ll be by tomorrow, just have to drop off my minivan with my mechanic, the thermostat stuck and I blew out my rad.. so once I arrange a pickup from his garage and I get home I’ll jump in my work truck and call you before I come ..? or should I wait to come ? Hmmm ..LOL ( j/k )
BBQ- thks for the support, I know - I know what I’m talking about and anyone who doubts me, please confirm with whom ever you want…
But boys if you caught on earlier in the thread.. Ms “D” has engineered floor joists which means the decking is a min 5/8” to ¾ “ glued and screwed … to meet the loading and design criteria of the manufacter. So all she needs is a new flat surface to put the lino on … ¼ proboard would do the trick.. plywood is also good , actually plywood would be easier to screw down and / or staple depending on the fastening system being used.
Regardless it’s not for strength or bounce just a clean flat surface for the lino which will have to be patched and sanded anyways… Hey MS “D” how big’s the area ? and more importantly do you have those stocking’s BBQ was talking about too? … LOL >>> BBQ your bad !!!! Now I’m having a HARD time concentrating… LOL | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 8:11:42 PM |
DEADLY… so do you have those stockings ?
Dang it...Do I have to pull out the good stuff for just a look see?????
Tomorrow sounds good. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 8:21:23 PM | okay okay..... I'll do the braile inspection / look see. Touchie -feelie in the dark is my speciality becuase of my dazzling good looks I allways turn the lights off which is when I look my best.... well after a couple of dozen tequillas too !
Okay I'll call in the am .. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 8:21:59 PM | RO if I am reading things correctly I would make a box to fit the microwave and use small angle brackets attached inside the top and bottom pieces to the sides of the box.
I am assuming you will use ¾” for the box so I think the most stress will be on the screws into the wood at the top of the box. Even though they are loaded in shear you only have ¾” for them to grab. I would probably glue and screw a piece of solid stock to the inside top of the box and then drive the screws through this into the wall anchors. Use concrete inserts (I think they are lead).
It would be a good idea to do the same on the bottom but you might get away with metal angle brackets and the ¾” screws into the wood. The weight of the microwave will be directed into the wall at the bottom of the box as long as the box is sturdy enough built not to fall apart and is properly fastened at the top. Personally I would repeat the same method of attachment as the top.
I hope this reads right but then again I have a picture of what I am describing in my head. | |
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| Home reno advice .... ask the pro ?
Posted: 1/22/2008 8:43:45 PM | | ^^^Think I would rather take the time and drill the holes and use dowels (is that the right word for those wooden plugs) and wood glue, then screw the top to the sides rather than ruin the look of it by using metal angle brackets.... | |
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