| | Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please. Page 1 of 1 | Are there any mathematicians here? .........and glass cutters?
I'm trying to recreate some lovely little pyramid shaped ( no bigger then 5 inches high) ornamental things which my ex hubby and I made many years ago. He did the measuring and cutting.....I did the sanding.
How do you make a perfect pyramid and whats the best way to cut glass and seal it? I bought a glass cutter today and three grades of glass sanding paper to smooth the edges.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. xxx | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/27/2012 12:24:45 PM | I have yet to have successfully cut my own glass, but I can offer one small tip: use a metal straightedge to guide your cutter, make sure the glass is firmly held in place (clamping will break it, try using a very thin sheet of rubber-like fabric).
Only run your cutter down the glass ONCE. Multiple times will cause the glass to break in multiple places, and shatter.
ALWAYS use goggles. Tiny splinters of glass will fly off in unpredictable ways, and WILL get in your eye, because they are controlled by evil imps from outer space. Not really, but if you pretend they are, you will keep yourself safe.
I hope you have lots better luck than I have so far!!! | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/27/2012 6:08:43 PM | Yeah, Igor. Ya know what? Between trying to cut glass last night and reading your post this morning, I did, indeed, get glass in my eye. Tiny tiny fragments like dust.......and on my finger tips too so I've scrapped the idea. 
.......and now i believe you about the evil imps from outer space......... lol. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/27/2012 7:26:12 PM | Hi holly,
I'm a contractor and math / science geek. Are you going for a 4 sided pyramid with a base?
One trick aside from the afore mentioned single pass is to light the surface temporarily with lighter fluid or acetone, (finger nail polish remover), before breaking. This will cut down on those pesky shards.
Next tip is to gain purchase on the opposite adjacent edge evenly before breaking. Place the linear cuts on the edge of your work space gaining purchase as stated, now a fluid downward motion without jerking will result in a crisp edge.
Let me know the measurement on the pyramid's face and we can do some hands on tricks to fab your pyramid!
Have an awesome day! | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/28/2012 1:50:47 PM | | A four sided pyramid is what the Egyptians built. Square base, three edged sides, all "leaning" together to a single point. It's technically a five sided figure, including the base. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/28/2012 4:26:50 PM | ........and those pyramids are almost exactly symmetrical. Definately one of the 7 wonders of the world.
Yes, Stewart, 4 sides and good idea about the acetone! I've decided not to give up so easily so I'll try again and THIS time, wear goggles as Igor suggested. Horrible little imps!!! (I don't mean you, Igor. lol)
Unsure about measurements but as a starting point, assume I'm making one with a 10cm base. I guess I can easily draw diagrams on paper first, to experiment with height and therefore angles of the 4 triangular sides.
Again, any more advice will be great. :) | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/28/2012 5:19:48 PM | Make them out of cardboard first, to test your design. THEN use the glass.
I'm not clear at all about what you are trying to do, but when I've been trying to do anything construction-wise, I've found that I have to look at certain details carefully. In this case, I would suggest you think through where exactly you want the SEAMS to be.
If you make the bottom 10 by ten, for example, and you want the triangles to actually sit on top of it as though it's a base, then you have to reduce the edge of each triangle by the thickness of the materials used. But if you want the base to be hidden by the triangular sides, then they would have to be LARGER than the base, again by the thickness of the material.
You also have to decide how the four sides are going to join. If they are simply going to touch lightly, they can all be the same size. If they are going to be joined in the manner of stained glass, using lead Came, then you have to allow for the size of the glass, plus the thickness of the Came when putting it all together.
Exactly how you construct the edges is where you need to spend your planning time, in other words. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/28/2012 5:50:53 PM | Holly, you can get lead lighting tape that is copper with a sticky backing that is paper thin
--- so it will not effect your measurements too much,
and a soldering iron and lead solder can join the pieces...
Though you may have to coat the copper with Flux to make the solder stay in contact with the copper.
Oh, and I have found that Plumbing shops sell giant pieces of Lead Solder for a fraction of the price of hardware shops. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/28/2012 7:20:49 PM |
I'm not clear at all about what you are trying to do,
Okay, I'll explain as best I can. Many years ago my ex hubby and I made small glass ornamental things and octaginal shaped terrariums and fish tanks to sell at markets and give away to friends etc as gifts. Like I said, he did the measuring and cutting and sealing with "aquarium friendly" silicone and I sanded the glass and planted out the terrariums etc. They looked great. :)
Imagine a 4 sided pyramid with one side missing.......so I can put my hand or at least two fingers in it to decorate or plant tiny cacti in it. Obviously, to hold the dirt in place (or little stones if I was using fake flowers) .....the "open" side needs a little "lip" at the bottom of the "empty" side.....roughly a fifth of the way up.
With the "open" side facing me, the rear panel 's (triangle) 's left and right edges were sealed with the clear silicone right up to the point. So two lines of silicone to attach three sides.
But if you want the base to be hidden by the triangular sides, then they would have to be LARGER than the base, again by the thickness of the material.
I understand EXACTLY what you mean Igor. I'm working with 3mm glass. The square base will fit INSIDE the triangular sides.......so the base will be, say, 10cm square ( 100mm) PLUS the extra 3mm thickness of the sides. So it will actually become 103mm all round. I gotcha!! Phew.
Effervescence? Using leadlight material is a nice idea. More attractive than boring clear or white silicone. For the non fish tanks, I'll definately look into that. Thanks.xxx | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 2:21:25 PM | One more thought on this.
If you want the result to have smooth, crisp, single joint seams, you might accomplish that by having:
* a square base,
* one large triangle with a base edge of "square base edge length + twice the thickness of the materials,"
* two slightly smaller triangles, with base edges of "square base edge length + ONE thickness of the materials,"
* and one small triangle, with a base edge of "square base edge length."
The final assembly would have one face that was a perfect triangle (the largest triangle), two faces on each side of that, with a visible seam along the edge touching the large triangle, and then one face that has TWO visible seams, caused by each of the two middle size triangles.
That way, all of your glass pieces could avoid beveled edges, and still fit together (except the square base, but that would be hidden by the triangles anyway). | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 2:35:51 PM | I think your questions have been answered pretty much but here are a few tips for cutting glass (I was a glazier at one time)
Use even pressure when cutting.. the proper way to hold the glass cutter is between your index finger and middle finger with the tip of the index finger on the cutter applying pressure from the wrist and fingertip.. Use a scrap piece of glass to practice scoring
Once you start a cut do not stop. You cannot go back and start cutting again if you stop mid score without dramatically increasing the chances of having a run.
A light oil like sewing machine oil poured into a rag that is in a spray can top is useful for dipping the cutter in before a cut,it minimizes a "hot" cut. A hot cut is one that pops off little flakes after you have scored the glass. A "hot" cut is caused by too much pressure and will cause the glas to run and not follow the score.
set you cutter wheel on your mark at one end of the cut. move your straight edge to the edge of your cutter,repeat at other end,go back to start of cut and readjust,clamp lightly and proceed with scoring.
after the cut has been made, place a pencil under the score at either end and apply pressure on either side of the score.
You should be set. :) | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 4:57:48 PM | Well color me stupid on that one......my brain was in 1 dimensional instead of 3 dimensional mode!
My apologies!!
and I agree to use the oil to prevent the "flaking" and it keeps the cutter moving smoothly | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 6:09:54 PM | Lol. Thats okay MsMicki. Many people have said the same thing to me. A 4 sided pyramid? WTH? lol. We automatically think of 3 sides.
I've started practicing to cut glass and using the oil is a little easier. However, I need to either learn how to hold the cutter correctly or get a better quality one.
Thanks again for the tips Igor and everyonés input. :hugs: | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 7:43:23 PM | | take the cutter between your two fingers as I described Holly and let it lay back in the web between your index and middle finger. It takes a little practice to get used to but you should have it in no time. Your thumb should lay along side your index finger to steady it and the middle finger curls back towards your palm. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/29/2012 11:59:55 PM | http://www.langtoninfo.co.uk/showitem.aspx?isbn=B002KHNCRO
I've had some success with holding the cutter as LinuxD described. I know the "crackling" sound means the glass is scored sucessfully, and yes, I've been using oil for ease of cutting. I think I need a better cutter though.
Please see above URL for the exact picture of the cutter I have. However mine has a plastic handle not wooden. If entering a URL is against the rules, Im sorry. I'm just asking about the structure of the above (same as mine) cutter for further trouble shooting. Nothing else intended. Just a source of reference.
It has six wheels, yes, but why six wheels? The little dial is numbered 1 to 6 but I dont see the diffrerence. Mine is stuck at number one. The little "dial' with the numbers on it doesn't move. I just dont get it. Sorry. :( | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/30/2012 3:22:52 AM | Release screw and turn to replace (change) wheels
All the wheels are the same.. it's just a multi wheel cutter. never used one like that.
The ones used in the feild or shop by most glaziers are like this one :
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/general-tools-5-in-glass-cutter-267569.html
You'll have better luck finding one like that at a hardware store rather than a crafts store. | |
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| Cutting glass and measuring. Help needed please.
Posted: 7/30/2012 4:01:49 AM | There is a long you tube video, first showing why every other method does not work very well, especially the acetone one. Following my ceramics class, a man who taught stained glass and slumping and fusing came in. I would custom make molds for him and he would give me finished products. Both the video and the glass craft teacher used a temperature stress.
Make sure the cutting surface is perfectly level, any tiny bump can cause cracks inbthe wrong places. Lay glass flat, a non skid surface is best. A non skid guide tool is best. They make steel straight edges and french curves and the like with cork back, or you can paint a layer of silcone on the back. I think the pyramid measurements may be affected by how you join the edges.
Start with very cold glass.
Make the cut smooth firm and avoid pressure in uneven ways. Practice. Hesitant and on again off again pressure, or too much pressure, fails.
Do not try to cut all the way through, you just want a nice smooth score.
Now run just the crack under very hot water. Have a soft surface for glass to fall on to.
Sanding is best with a water grinder meant for this and you can find it in stained glass supplies and is not very expensive. | |
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