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 Cdan1957
Joined: 9/17/2013
Msg: 226
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A man and his car...Page 10 of 13    (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13)

If I showed up in a poor exterior condition 1969 Chevrolet Camaro with a Rat 502 under the hood, would you really give a shit?


They probably wouldn't like it and for those females not into cars it would probably be a deal breaker.......I am not a gear head and not pretending to be one but had friends that were really into it. I understand the attraction and appreciate the addiction but it is like any other interest. If someone is fanatic about something then they probably should state that upfront. I understand that the big block camaro you are speaking of in mint condition with matched numbers would probably approach 6 figures in cost. However, for someone that has no interest in cars it would seem to be a waste of money. Nothing is worse than have someone totally dismiss as unimportant something that you are fanatical about.
 gtomustang
Joined: 6/16/2007
Msg: 227
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/9/2016 9:54:01 AM
"If I arrived in a rusted out 1969 Camaro with a crate 502, would she really care about its outward appearance?"

>>>sadly, most fan boi's wouldn't even recognize it, "rat muscle" is less recognized than barnfinds. A town away from me is a 4 door 1969 Malibu with greenish moss over its Fathom Blue paint, and I'd love to give that thing a California rake over some grey-spoke Torq Thrusts with no spinner caps, a hot engine under the hood and a cleaned up stock interior...and a Pro-Touring grade suspension so it can surprise people on the strip or track. Just to mess with people's minds at car shows, it would have all the parts they expect on a hot rod, but the shiny paint wouldn't be there, and then there would be the problem in their head that its a 4 door.

the golden rule for interactions is...if you have explain what you're doing, you shouldn't do it. Your act should be self-explanatory.
 rockstartrucker82
Joined: 11/22/2015
Msg: 228
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A man and his car...
Posted: 5/10/2016 6:53:48 PM

If I showed up in a poor exterior condition 1969 Chevrolet Camaro with a Rat 502 under the hood, would you really give a shit?


If it looks ugly, that's what they care about. When I had a Fiero (lost my second one in September /cry), those 2 cars got me a few girls, because they think I have a great car. It looks fast, it sounded like it should be fast, it could EASILY beat someone in a race if I was the only one racing, it was in the shop every couple weeks because it kept breaking... But it was what was on the outside that mattered.
 usernonymous
Joined: 8/18/2011
Msg: 229
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/10/2016 9:21:17 PM
I drive a 10 year old beater and a high performance sports car.....what does that make me? Other than bipolar.....
 LJane_6
Joined: 6/10/2015
Msg: 230
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A man and his car...
Posted: 5/11/2016 11:53:38 PM

If it looks ugly, that's what they care about.


Do most women honestly care about this? I could care less what a guy's car looks like, as long as he has one, and we're not going to get stuck somewhere in -40 degree weather (I live in Canada, lol)
 ThroatLozenge
Joined: 3/2/2016
Msg: 231
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/12/2016 6:05:48 AM


Do most women honestly care about this?


Not the car so much but the payment.
 gtomustang
Joined: 6/16/2007
Msg: 232
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/12/2016 8:00:09 AM
Fiero--"modern "proof that GM waits until they get something perfect before they'll kill it.

Do most women care if a guy's car is a POS? well, do most women care about clean bathrooms? If a woman isn't knowledgable about cars and doesn't want to get stuck on the side of the road, how can she judge the likelihood? by how it looks, probably.

of course, chances are she isn't going to even see his car on the first date in a public location, maybe not until she's about ready to get into it...and by that date, she's probably already formed an opinion. so it might all be moot :)
 ThroatLozenge
Joined: 3/2/2016
Msg: 233
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/12/2016 9:45:26 AM
Helping a skirt out of a Vette is...tricky.

I try not to stare :(
 purplerider1200
Joined: 9/10/2011
Msg: 234
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A man and his car...
Posted: 5/12/2016 5:32:41 PM
There is no way to tell if a person's vehicle is going to go belly up.

Many moons ago I had a new 77 Dodge truck. It looked nice, clean and trustworthy. Took a new date to a fireworks display. I pulled in, we watched the show, got in to take her back. Into reverse to back out, and there it stayed, in reverse. That truck was one year old and had 28,000 miles on it. I ended up on my back under that dam thing with a flashlight, jerking that lousy trans linkage out of reverse.

Yes, I drive old, orphaned vehicles that don't look so hot. By the time I get them road worthy, they are first rate mechanically and I know what is going on with them.
 gtomustang
Joined: 6/16/2007
Msg: 235
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/12/2016 9:44:05 PM
it amazes me to no end that Ma Mopar can combine the best engineering (except the lug nuts on the passenger side of your truck, I got stuck with those once out in the woods of Maine, stupid left thread) with the worst quality control. I'm not surprised to hear your story, only b/c I am for-armed with the knowledge that Dodge was slowly going out of business by then--the old saw was, never use a Mopar big block made after 1976, the cast iron was softer, main webs thinner, etc. And when the Ram trucks first came out in 94, man what lemons. people I knew who had one, would get approached at gas stations by other owners to compare notes on what was blowing up before its time. And the TorqueFlite, supposed to be as strong a trans as a Hydromatic 4 speed, yet even those things are a dice-roll, the 1970 road test of the Tor Red Hemi cuda convertible couldn't keep their's alive, and that was a vehicle prepped for the press. That's how restorers recognized the car in the 1980's.

but a properly built vehicle, i'm going to argue, doesn't just "go". It starts making noises, acts erratically, etc. Little hints that us "Car guys" hear a mile away--"hear that car pulling in? Left front wheel bearing, b/c its turning left to come in."

:)

ok, i'm exaggerating. But to be sexist, just as a woman might hear a baby's cry and interpret it exactly, she might not be as cognizant about cars, so she'll rely more on, "does it LOOK like a death trap?"
 JJBean21
Joined: 8/12/2015
Msg: 236
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/13/2016 6:24:10 PM

This is unfair to many of the people you are referring to. Many of them put all their time, energy and money into their careers and families. Their car hobby got put to the side for those reasons and I respect hell out of them for doing that. It bis easy to lose the skills and hard to come up with the dedication to do what I do for example. With the performance level of new cars they are a choice that satisfies the urge without having to be a mechanical guru to keep going.
I see the racers who have put their everything into racing and have sometimes wondered how selfish that decision was when they have a family.


Agree. I have a good friend from high school who is a race car driver ( ARCA) and he dedicates his whole life to racing. It's all about his cars, his racing schedule, his pit crew, his fans.....so being in a relationship with him means....RACING is first and everything else is 2nd. But that's who he is....and you either accept it or you don't. And a guy who drives a junker car that looks like a garbage can on the inside? Well, after ya get to 'know him" you either accept it or ya don't. Some people put a lot of emphasis on "looks" whether it's personal possessions, or their physical characteristics.
 JJBean21
Joined: 8/12/2015
Msg: 237
A man and his car...
Posted: 5/13/2016 6:32:04 PM

If I showed up in a poor exterior condition 1969 Chevrolet Camaro with a Rat 502 under the hood, would you really give a shit?


Why on earth and HOW on earth did a rat get under the hood of your car??? And my ex had a mint condition 69 Camaro....why would you let a car with this much value get into poor condition? Shame on you, dude. LOL
 gtomustang
Joined: 6/16/2007
Msg: 238
hey, does that Camaro have a hemi?
Posted: 5/13/2016 7:59:13 PM
at the risk of "mansplaining", do you know where the slang term for the Chevy Big Block engine came from? Allegedly, when racers saw the valvestems canted off in different directions, compared to most wedge chamber designs, they nicknamed it the Porcupine, then shortened that to Rat (b/c of course racers are always in a hurry). Why let a classic car get into poor condition? ah, a question asked at car shows as well...as someone shows up with a "barn find" car, or a "Day two" (how it would have been treated after the newness worn off, with a tach radiator hose clamped to the steering column and custom tires and extra 6x9 speakers and headers), or just looking like it was 1975 and a kid bought it as the third owner and couldn't spend what it took to spiff it up.

A muscle car is as much about the car, as about the dreams of the owners. one owner will keep it a historical time capsule, another will personalize it as he would as a kid but keep it shiny new and clean, and a third will make it look like its been used and abused but its still strong enough to be in the game. funny people, us gearheads, huh?
 dragonbytes
Joined: 9/15/2015
Msg: 239
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dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 7:51:46 AM

Yes, I drive old, orphaned vehicles that don't look so hot. By the time I get them road worthy, they are first rate mechanically and I know what is going on with them.

Update on check engine light problem which I assumed would be an O2 sensor since that is what I have problems with most often.

I pulled the O2 sensor out of the block, tested it with an ohm meter and propane torch, it tested good, so I got my OBC scanned.

The problem was actually a crankcase sensor. After spending a lot of time searching online for where the sensor is on the block, I was very happy to discover it was easy to get to, sometimes you have to lift the engine to get access.

My joy didn't last long.

When trying to remove the sensor, it broke in half leaving something looking like a core/freeze plug in the block.

I am thinking the only way to get this out is to drill a small hole into it and screw in a self tapping screw into it and pull it out like pulling a tooth, the only other way is to remove the oil pan and hammer it out from inside of the engine, though I am not sure removing the oil pan will give me access.

Of course, I could just drive the car to a mechanic and find out how much they charge to remove it.

Any advice on how using the self tapping screw will work?
 Unfinished_Chapter
Joined: 5/4/2016
Msg: 240
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 8:15:45 AM

When trying to remove the sensor, it broke in half leaving something looking like a core/freeze plug in the block.


Dragon, that should not be pressed in rather just slides in on that piece. Get a automotive magnet (telescopes to pick up dropped bolts and tools) 4-5 dollars maybe) or other as long as it's relatively strong and see if you can pull it out, if not all the way then possibly enough to grab it with some vise grips.

May want to spray it with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench prior to loosen up any corrosion that may be holding it in.
 Whisky_River
Joined: 12/2/2015
Msg: 241
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 8:34:44 AM
I am by no way knowledgeable about cars but my late husband was a mechanic and we owned a shop.
So, I learned the basics...I am lucky to have an honest neighborhood mechanic I trust now.

Anyways, my point is a lot of times when something is happening to my car/truck/washer/lawnmower/ or if I need some info...
I have found youtube....has videos on absolutely anything and everything....to help diagnose or an easier way to do something.
I use it all the time for things. Today, I was researching how to plumb in a dishwasher....think I can do it.
Carry on.....
 dragonbytes
Joined: 9/15/2015
Msg: 242
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dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 8:36:03 AM

Dragon, that should not be pressed in rather just slides in on that piece. Get a automotive magnet (telescopes to pick up dropped bolts and tools) 4-5 dollars maybe) or other as long as it's relatively strong and see if you can pull it out, if not all the way then possibly enough to grab it with some vise grips.


I know it's not pressed in. I thought maybe rusted in.

But part of the plastic surrounding material stayed stuck to the block, so maybe that is actually the problem. If I sand / scrap off the plastic, the plug maybe easier to remove, but I don't think a magnet will work. When I look at the new sensor, it isn't very strongly attracted to a magnet, actually very weak, so that won't work. The surrounding metal looks like aluminum to me.

The car still drives fine, I will take it to a local mechanic on Monday to see what they would charge, but if it's more than I think is reasonable, I will try the to get it out myself.

If I do it myself, I will have to buy a angle power screwdriver to be able to get at it, it's not really tight working space but not big enough for a regular electric power screwdriver. That would cost about $40.00.
 Unfinished_Chapter
Joined: 5/4/2016
Msg: 243
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 8:54:22 AM

The car still drives fine


That's correct. The only thing will be the CEL on a 96.

I've read where you can drill a 3/16 hole and use a dry wall screw and try and pull it out. Dremel tool would work doubt you could get a portable drill in there. My understanding is the O-ring becomes hard and brittle and bonds with the block to a certain extent.

I've also read where that plug has been punched into the block and falls into the oil pan and remains there with no ill effects as it can't be sucked up into the oil pickup tube. You could do that temporarily and later at your convenience drop the oil pan on a oil change and just remove it then.
 dragonbytes
Joined: 9/15/2015
Msg: 244
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dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 9:22:19 AM

I've read where you can drill a 3/16 hole and use a dry wall screw and try and pull it out. Dremel tool would work doubt you could get a portable drill in there. My understanding is the O-ring becomes hard and brittle and bonds with the block to a certain extent.

I've also read where that plug has been punched into the block and falls into the oil pan and remains there with no ill effects as it can't be sucked up into the oil pickup tube. You could do that temporarily and later at your convenience drop the oil pan on a oil change and just remove it then.


A Dremel might work, but the problem is the length of any tool, an electric drill and drill bit would hit the radiator fan, a Dremel might be short enough. I always wanted a reason to buy a dremel, they are handy and I don't own one.

A drill bit extension chuck would work, but then I would be drilling in at a slight downward angle, not a lot but much better if I could drill at a 90 degree angle.

I thought the last resort would be to push it through and hope it dropped into the oil pan. I took the oil pan off once before, I don't recall what was just above it, I thought another plate with a drain but I don't recall for sure, and it's messy taking off an oil pan.

I will deal with it next week after stopping at a local repair shop to see what they would charge. I have 6 months before I need to get the car inspected for emissions, so I have time but my wife drives the car 6 days a week and I don't want to drill into anything if she will need the car the next day. I like to give myself at least 4 hours and 1 day to do that sort of thing.
 Unfinished_Chapter
Joined: 5/4/2016
Msg: 245
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 9:22:45 AM
Dragon I just looked and if your oil pan is anything like the 98 model Altima I would punch the part into the block and drop the oil pan and remove it (after draining obviously). Looks like a piece of cake...new gasket or rtv...let it set up an hour or so...replace the filter while your there...refill with oil and done. Better than buying a dremel or going to the shop...heck of a lot cheaper that's for sure.
 purplerider1200
Joined: 9/10/2011
Msg: 246
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dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 2:18:52 PM

Today, I was researching how to plumb in a dishwasher....think I can do it.
Carry on.....

You can, if it's a replacement. Just note where everything went as you took the old out. If the old waste line isn't cracked or damaged, and is still pliable, the waste line can be reused.(a new one can be a bit of a pain to to put in, but not impossible.)

About 5 years ago, I got a call from an appliance service man, thanking me for the way I installed a dishwasher. When I do a new installation, it gets a valved supply line, and wired in such a way that it gets plugged in. On my installations, the dishwasher can be run sitting in the middle of the kitchen floor. The reason I do that, is so any service tech can pull it out, service the machine, run it to make sure his fix worked properly, and just slide it back in place. I've had customers call me to come replace old dishwashers with new ones. ( I did their old dishwasher install.) Takes 20 minutes.
 gtomustang
Joined: 6/16/2007
Msg: 247
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/14/2016 5:15:17 PM
Dragon, google "Remove broken stud", you might find a tactic that can work on the sensor's remains. and google "easy out", that might be the tool you can use. Should you ever break a bolt off in the future, you'll be glad you have that tool to back out the broken bolt.

Whiskey River is spot on about YouTube. It saved my ass when I had to swap serpentine belts on my truck and couldn't see how the new one went on. you might luck out on a search for a youtube vid, this might be a common shadetree mechanic repair.

keep us in the loop, i'm interested to learn how it turns out.
 Whisky_River
Joined: 12/2/2015
Msg: 248
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/15/2016 7:39:15 AM
@Purple...Not a replacement. I'm talking wiring and plumbing..all new.
I have done my own baseboard heaters and a few replacements on taps....after watching the videos.
Not on my priority list right now...I have the dishwasher but with quotes of $400.00 to install..seems rather high to me.
I may be over my head with this one...we'll see....lol.
 NYNewtoPSL
Joined: 4/9/2016
Msg: 249
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/15/2016 7:47:39 AM
6.0 and 6.4 Powerstroke cam sensors had a knack of failing and to change one could be easy or a nightmare. If this part has a rubber o ring seal on it going into a cast iron/aluminum engine block, bed plate etc your best option is to get brake clean and saturate the part FIRST before trying to remove it. NEVER use PB Blaster WD40 or any sort of penetrating oil because that causes the o ring seal to swell and you will NEVER get it out without breaking it. Get a 90 degree small pick and scrape the rust/corrosion out around the sensor/component saturate with brake clean twist left to right while gently tugging eventually the o ring will dry up and crack and viola it's out.
 NYNewtoPSL
Joined: 4/9/2016
Msg: 250
dump the ole girl and get a newer model?
Posted: 5/15/2016 7:57:12 AM

Dragon, google "Remove broken stud", you might find a tactic that can work on the sensor's remains. and google "easy out", that might be the tool you can use. Should you ever break a bolt off in the future, you'll be glad you have that tool to back out the broken bolt.

Whiskey River is spot on about YouTube. It saved my ass when I had to swap serpentine belts on my truck and couldn't see how the new one went on. you might luck out on a search for a youtube vid, this might be a common shadetree mechanic repair.

keep us in the loop, i'm interested to learn how it turns out.

Never was a fan of easy outs, they do work great for digging a rotten dip stick tube out of a 4.6 5.4 V8 or 6.8 V10 engine block but the best way to remove a broken stud is get a mig welder and a nut, weld a nut to the stud (with the battery disconnected) works like a charm for broken manifold studs that have been broken for a while in the head with rust/corrosion built up around the stud/cylinder head to manifold mating surface. Drilling is a last ditch effort. The drill guides that are available for fords helps but good drill bits to cut hardened steel bolts are expensive and hard to come by. I have a set of drill bits out of MSC that each bit cost 90-200 a piece I call them hydra head bits they are a 3 flute design and turn steel iron stainless into dust on a slow speed with moderate pressure. Your standard DeWalt and even titanium coated bits won't touch some of the things that require drilling, like the exhaust manifold bolts on a 7.3 6.0 6.4 diesel. Or even the hardened stainless (copper color manifold studs) on the 4.6-6.8s.
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