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 Bluesman2008
Joined: 4/2/2008
Msg: 99
PhotographyPage 5 of 5    (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
I wonder what the guys who are in film processing are going to do for a living. All the pros I see are using high end digital cameras. I don't know anyone who uses film any more.
 Tayfire
Joined: 2/29/2008
Msg: 100
view profile
History
Photography
Posted: 3/17/2010 5:43:12 AM
Yes apart from holiday photos im a member of the fire brigade society and visit different fire services in scotland 3 times a year and photograph appliances but theres vists from march to september all over britain. I bought myself a DSLR a Samsung GX 10 in 2007. The first visit in scotland is on April the 10th at Strathclyde fire@rescue at Hamilton, Cumbernauld and other places etc. Theres about 900 members in britain.
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 101
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History
Photography
Posted: 3/20/2010 11:47:13 AM

I wonder what the guys who are in film processing are going to do for a living. All the pros I see are using high end digital cameras. I don't know anyone who uses film any more.



Film is mostly used by artists rather than commercial photographers or portrait/wedding photographers. I shoot 200-300 rolls of film a year, which I process myself. Most of the decent photo labs have died off.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 102
Photography
Posted: 11/10/2011 11:45:27 PM
Since I'm not going to make a new thread for fear of bannishment >.>

I do photography, since april I've sold 487 dollars worth of landscape photography.

I am just getting into portraits and I'm making my own lighting rigs since I don't have a lot of money to blow on lighting equipment. Any suggestions?

I have a Sony A-330 with the 18-55mm DT lens f/3.5-5.6
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 103
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History
Photography
Posted: 11/11/2011 12:29:53 AM

Since I'm not going to make a new thread for fear of bannishment >.>

I do photography, since april I've sold 487 dollars worth of landscape photography.

I am just getting into portraits and I'm making my own lighting rigs since I don't have a lot of money to blow on lighting equipment. Any suggestions?

I have a Sony A-330 with the 18-55mm DT lens f/3.5-5.6



The only cheap lighting is to use incandescent or hologen floodlights. Even if you buy a system like this (they're called photofloods or hot-lights) at a camera store, they're cheap. Problem is, as the name implies, they put out a LOT of heat and make your subjects sweat profusely. You need strobes, and you need at least 3 of them for most studio work at $500 or so EACH. If that sounds expensive, remember that your competition DOES have them. I have two complete sets, in case I have one fail on a shoot. That's happened, one strobe head exploded on a wedding shoot once! I unplugged it, put one of my backup units on the lightstand and kept shooting!
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 104
Photography
Posted: 11/11/2011 5:17:47 PM


The only cheap lighting is to use incandescent or hologen floodlights.


I have a 50 watt halogen...the thing works for ambient shots which is great for certain things.



Even if you buy a system like this (they're called photofloods or hot-lights) at a camera store, they're cheap.

I was looking at two spot lights, they take 500 watt lights.



You need strobes, and you need at least 3 of them for most studio work at $500 or so EACH. If that sounds expensive, remember that your competition DOES have them. I have two complete sets, in case I have one fail on a shoot. That's happened, one strobe head exploded on a wedding shoot once! I unplugged it, put one of my backup units on the lightstand and kept shooting!


Ya i realize how much the price is, I've been doing my shots in good lighting thank god. I am hoping to get some light stands and that after I sell some photo's off to the chamber of commerce here.

So another question since I'm right full of them.

What manual flashes would you recommend? I know they're cheap so I'm wanting to get a few of them with some tripods and etc...so that I can hook them up for senior portraits.
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 105
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History
Photography
Posted: 11/11/2011 5:43:41 PM
Ya i realize how much the price is, I've been doing my shots in good lighting thank god. I am hoping to get some light stands and that after I sell some photo's off to the chamber of commerce here.

So another question since I'm right full of them.

What manual flashes would you recommend? I know they're cheap so I'm wanting to get a few of them with some tripods and etc...so that I can hook them up for senior portraits.


If you want to buy studio strobes that go on lightstands, I'd go for either PhotoGenic Powerlight 1250 strobes or Alienbees B1600 strobes.

http://tinyurl.com/powerlight1250

http://www.paulcbuff.com/b1600.php

I have the Photogenic, but the Alienbees are good too. Both systems are American Made and relatively inexpensive for studio flashes. Both companies offer cheaper models, but they're less powerful and once you put on an umbrella or softbox to diffuse the light, the cheaper ones may not put out enough light. Lower-powered ones are fine for individual portraits but not for group portraits. The ones I recommended can be turned down to lower power when needed.

If you are looking for inexpensive shoe-mount flashes that you can buy several of and stick on tripods to use till you can afford a regular studio strobe system, I'd recommend the Vivitar 285. They're cheap, manual, powerful for their size, and very reliable. I have one I have had for 20 years. They've been made since the early 1970s and are still in production. Get new ones, not used ones. Old ones are reliable, but several yrs ago, they changed the design slightly because the flash-trigger voltage of the old ones was too high for modern electronic cameras, and could damage newer cameras like your digital camera. The newer 285 version is safe for your camera and you connect them to a sync cord to your camera for off-camera use. They cost $87 each.

http://tinyurl.com/vivitar285
 christyis4real
Joined: 7/6/2011
Msg: 106
Photography
Posted: 11/11/2011 9:01:46 PM
I'm a wannabe photographer lol.

Seriously though...photography is my passion and it makes me happy. I hope to one day move on up in the camera department.

Have a few pics in my profile. Nothing spectacular..just a hobby
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 107
Photography
Posted: 11/13/2011 1:41:42 PM
@ilovehistory

have you checked this thing out?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/659928-REG/Impact_Strobros_Portrait_Kit.html

I looked at them, and I'll have to think about it...money is tight at the moment and prints aren't selling.
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 108
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History
Photography
Posted: 11/13/2011 4:44:01 PM

have you checked this thing out?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/659928-REG/Impact_Strobros_Portrait_Kit.html

I looked at them, and I'll have to think about it...money is tight at the moment and prints aren't selling.


Problem with that stuff is that the reflector they're selling doesn't soften light much at all. They call it a 'beauty dish', but beauty dishes are generally 2-3 feet in diameter, because smaller reflectors give harsh light. I usually shoot my strobes through 3x4 foot softboxes to get that soft windowlight look. My Photogenic strobes came standard with little 9 inch reflectors, which are bigger than the ones that kit has, and they're really harsh.

You'd be better off getting umbrellas. There are inexpensive adapters you can buy that attach to the top of a tripod and which have a holder for the umbrella and a shoe for your flash. Umbrellas are cheap, $20 or so each (don't buy expensive ones, they are not better than cheap ones). I think the adapter to hold the umbrella is maybe $20 also.

At the most basic, you really need two flashes and an umbrella for each (30 inch works fine). One for the main light, one for the fill light (the fill light keeps the shadows from going too dark). A third light is nice to put a bright spot on the background, but is not required. I wouldn't bother using a hairlight until you can afford studio strobes, because shoe-mount flashes don't have modeling lights that show you how the light falls, they're hard to aim accurately enough to use for hair-lights (typically aimed through a snoot like the kit you asked about comes with).
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 109
Photography
Posted: 11/25/2011 1:45:27 PM
@ilovehistory

Ok I'm going to be shooting tomorrow night at an event in a building (I have no external flashes money went tight this month). So camera flash should be sufficient depending on my WB correct?

Camera is the Sony A-330 lens is the 18-55mm DT lens f/3.5-5.6
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 110
view profile
History
Photography
Posted: 11/25/2011 5:41:53 PM

@ilovehistory

Ok I'm going to be shooting tomorrow night at an event in a building (I have no external flashes money went tight this month). So camera flash should be sufficient depending on my WB correct?

Camera is the Sony A-330 lens is the 18-55mm DT lens f/3.5-5.6


Are you using the little flash built into the camera, or do you have a flash in the hot shoe? Either will work, but be aware that the built-in flashes are usually not very strong, so they don't work well if the subject is far from the camera.

The fancy multi-flash setups are really only useful for portraits of people in front of a fixed background. The stuff isn't easily moved around, so if you're doing an event where they want photos of people all around the even doing things, then one flash on the camera is best because its easy to carry about.

If you do have a flash you can mount in the hot shoe, and if it has a tilting and swiveling head, you can bounce the light off the ceiling by tilting the flash head up. This gives VERY natural looking light; you often cannot tell a flash was used! The building you do it in needs to have relatively low ceilings (10 feet or under) because light from a flash gets dimmer with the distance it has to travel, and with high ceilings, the light will be too dim by the time it bounces back to the subject. The ceiling needs to be white too, colored ceilings will actually color the light as it bounces from the colored surface, making your picture look like it has a color cast!

Flash pointed direct at the subject, like you get with the built-in flash, tends to look harsh and unnatural, but it'll work if its all you have to start with.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 111
Photography
Posted: 11/26/2011 11:06:31 AM
Photoshop is good for softening skin tones if needed :)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605930-REG/Bower_SFD926S_SFD926S_Digital_Shoe_Mount.html

That's the flash I'm looking at there is a diffuser on there it's 14 bucks. So currently I'm looking at 135 approx for my total order it's a good starter flash, and it would do me good. One thing I am thinking of doing is saving up 10 grand (by some miracle) and going off to a warzone to do photography.
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 112
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Photography
Posted: 11/26/2011 3:00:44 PM

Photoshop is good for softening skin tones if needed :)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605930-REG/Bower_SFD926S_SFD926S_Digital_Shoe_Mount.html

That's the flash I'm looking at there is a diffuser on there it's 14 bucks. So currently I'm looking at 135 approx for my total order it's a good starter flash, and it would do me good. One thing I am thinking of doing is saving up 10 grand (by some miracle) and going off to a warzone to do photography.


Photoshop can't fix the ugly harsh light you get by pointing a flash directly at the subject. Sorry, it won't. When you get your new flash, try it. Shoot a portrait with the flash directly at the subject and one with it bounced off the ceiling. You'll see.

Don't even think about doing war photography till you learn to be a photographer. You'll get yourself killed. You have to be able to operate your camera as an extension of your body, without thinking about what knob to turn or what button to press. You spend time on a battlefield doing that and you'll be too busy screwing with your gear to see the soldier pointing his Kalashnikov at you.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 113
Photography
Posted: 11/26/2011 3:07:23 PM
The last part....you underestimate my SA, former military recruit. Anyways.

I've softened the lighting within a picture in photoshop before, your right you can't get everything done but alas that's not what we were talking about.

The flash that I posted there, what do you think of it? I think it's a good starter, I'm just looking for a few opinions before I actually purchase.
 RichardB454
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 114
Photography
Posted: 11/27/2011 6:03:11 PM
Hello , What type of camera sre you shooting with ?
For me I still use film Black & White . Large format 4x5
Good luck .
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 115
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History
Photography
Posted: 11/27/2011 7:34:24 PM

The flash that I posted there, what do you think of it? I think it's a good starter, I'm just looking for a few opinions before I actually purchase.


It looks like a good flash. The price is right too. My Nikon SB-800, which has similar specifications, cost almost 4 times as much!
 ilovehistory
Joined: 8/12/2009
Msg: 116
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History
Photography
Posted: 11/27/2011 7:35:28 PM

Hello , What type of camera sre you shooting with ?
For me I still use film Black & White . Large format 4x5
Good luck .


Hasselblad and Leica, both with film, mostly black and white. I had a Nikon digital SLR, but gave it to my son.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 117
Photography
Posted: 1/18/2012 1:01:00 PM
Hey history,

Got a quick question for you about external flashes again. But this time for off camera on tripods, how many would you recommend for a shoot? (modelling, senior portraits, family portraits)
 gingerosity
Joined: 12/10/2011
Msg: 118
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Photography
Posted: 2/5/2012 2:21:13 AM
He answered that question before:


<div class="quote">You need strobes, and you need at least 3 of them for most studio work at $500 or so EACH

I reckon you can get away with less than three to start with, since you're so skint. I'm just an amateur too, but so far I've been getting away with using just two, shooting outdoors to use the sunlight as the third source. If the sun is out you can use the sun as the hair light and fill in the rest with your main+fill strobes on the front. Or if cloudy you can use the sky as the main light, because the light is nice and soft. In theory you could even get away with just 1 and a reflector but that would be harder and you would need a helper to hold it if you don't want to get a stand as well. Pros would use 3 or more because they require high speed and top performance in all conditions but if you're just starting out you don't have to get 3 all at once to start to get some money coming in. I'd also recommend a softbox or at least an umbrella for your main light before getting a 3rd strobe.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 119
Photography
Posted: 2/5/2012 11:49:44 PM
Eh, I wasn't asking about studio lighting at this point.

My question was pertaining to flashes for my camera, I've already gone and reserved one from a person since he's willing to hold on to it.

For the lighting, as a person on a low budget I've learned to adapt with lighting if I can. I do most of my shooting outside, but I've learned how and where to shoot in my area just by the light; Doing this has enabled me to lessen any overexposed parts of a picture because of learning the different times of day.

My budget, roughly 300 per month if that tells you anything. I improvise to hell and back, but I still get sales; I also get suggestions from photographers in my area and in Toronto of how to set up my lighting on a low budget and basically I send them pics of what I have for lighting, which isn't much and they help me from there.

The flash question was due to me about to purchase a flash for my camera, since I need it for event shooting; And for doing portraits this upcoming spring/summer/fall.
 gingerosity
Joined: 12/10/2011
Msg: 120
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History
Photography
Posted: 2/6/2012 12:38:33 AM
Yeah, thats all I use - just the two flashes, outdoors. I shoot canon so I use a 580II and a 430. You can still use a small fold-up softbox for a leisurely outdoors shoot, you just need a buddy to hold it! Obviously not for events.
 Falcon91
Joined: 10/10/2011
Msg: 121
Photography
Posted: 2/6/2012 5:47:24 AM
Having a few tri-pods comes in handy :P

Not to mention if you build rigs you can impress you clientèle with your creativity!

I know one of the guys around here used pie plates for reflectors wasn't to bad of an idea actually.
 Kings_Knight
Joined: 1/20/2009
Msg: 122
Photography
Posted: 2/6/2012 3:56:26 PM
@ Nr 11:


" ... I'm not sure what makes someone a "professional photographer", but I have people tell me that I am a professional, likely because I have been paid for assignments. However, I do not have a DSLR camera in my possession as of yet, so there are people, especially other photographers who do not consider me to be a professional photographer.


If you've been paid, you're a professional. That said, your next step is to set yourself up with appropriate forms to use when discussing briefs with clients - and remember to put your 'Terms and Conditions' on back.

As for equipment: I made the switch to digital years back now, and the single biggest advantage for me is getting away from the scratches and dust film will inevitably succumb to. I still love film, but many of my favorite films (Kodak's 'Tech Pan' and 'Ektar 25') are no longer made. Film can also be 'push-processed' or 'pull-processed' if you raise or lower the ISO. When, for example, I pushed Fujichrome 'Velvia' (a 50 ISO) to 400, I got faux colors and increased graininess - terrific free effects. Note when you drop off the film you need to tell them to process that 50-speed as if it were 400-speed to get the effect of pushing it. I still, btw, have my favorite film cameras - an Olympus OM-4 and Canon A-2. If Polaroid still made SX-70 film, I'd still be using that one, too. I know there's a company making reproduction SX-70 packs, but I'm not sold on it yet. For the right type of job, I'd break out the film cameras again - but I prefer the ease and reliability of digital.


I was close to done working on my portfolio online, when I saw one of my pictures on another website, whose source did not credit me. That made me a tad paranoid. So my photography won't hit the internet publically again, until I have all my photos watermarked.


Visit www.tineye.com and it can check the web for your images and report back to you. You may also want to investigate Copyrighting your images (or using the correct Creative Commons licensure, depending). In the US, images can be GANG-Copyrighted (meaning you can obtain multiple Copyrights for thousands of images) for only ONE fee. Tremendous bargain. Having STATUTORY Copyright (written / hard copy) is much more enforceable in a dispute than is implied Copyright (the © notification on the image). You DO place at least the © information on your images, correct? Proper form for that is as follows: © (insert year here) (insert name here) ... you may also want to watermark your images to protect them.

If you have a chapter of the American Society of Media Photographers near you, you may want to contact them about an Associate membership. That will introduce you to practicing professionals in your area. Good luck to you in your endeavors.
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